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メンバーズBlog - 御在所 岩稜トレーニング

御在所 岩稜トレーニング

カテゴリ : 
岩!ガン!クライミング
執筆 : 
nisizawa 2013-7-15 10:37

2013年7月14日 御在所一の壁周辺 岩稜トレーニング

8月の阿弥陀岳南稜参加希望者の力量確認とトレーニングを兼ねて御在所一の壁周辺にてトレーニングを行った。
行動は朝少々寝過ごした様な人も居たようでしたがほぼ計画通りでした。
 
一の壁は日本で最初にロッククライミングが行われたと言われる有名な岩場であるが、まずは一の壁の周りをクライミングシューズは使わず一般登山靴で岩場歩きのトレーニングを行う。
 
一の壁周回コースは私が山岳会へ入会する以前であるが、岩稜トレーニングを目的として有料講習会を受講したコースである。
 
参加者は難なくクリアー、荷物を少し軽くして更に上を目指す。この辺りは冬場アイスクライミングのゲレンデともなる。岩場の終了点辺りまで上がってここで折り返す。最上部の急峻部分は懸垂下降で降りる。
 
この辺りも難なくクリアーし力量は問題なしと判断した。
 
力量は十分と判断したので一の壁のクライミングを試みる。一の壁周回コースから降りてくる途中で一の壁の支点を使って懸垂下降で一の壁を降りる。
 
一人一本つづクライミングを試したが、初心者のTさんだけは途中の核心部がクリアできず、レベルアップには更なるトレーニングが期待される。
 
1130になったので一の壁の日陰で昼食をとり、少々時間に余裕があったので前尾根の一部を試してみることにした。二ルンゼ分岐まで降り、ここで初めてクライミングシューズに履き替える。二ルンゼ分岐のテストストーンでクライミングシューズの調子を確認する。
 
午後から雷雨の天気予報であったが少々雲行も怪しくなってきている。
 
1ピッチ目は難なくクリア、2ピッチ目にて初心者のTさんが難儀していると急な大粒の雨が降り出す。慌てて懸垂下降で撤収するが岩場横の巻道が滝になるぐらいの降り方で全身ずぶ濡れ、Nさんは岩陰で河童に着替えたが、通り雨程度で終わり、寒くもなかったのでそのまま下山した。

温泉は希望壮、最上階に温泉があり伊勢湾が望める露天風呂があります。(温泉は今朝お寝坊した方のおごりでした。)

 

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