犬山山岳会 山行報告書
個人山行
企画者
増田
山名
御在所岳
山行形態
マルチピッチクライミング
山行期間
2022年5月8日(日)
メンバー
増田 会員外1名
行動
5/8()
裏道駐車場6:40〜藤内小屋〜一壁取りつき8:00〜一壁クライミング
〜前尾根p7取りつき10:30〜前尾根〜p3終了点14:00
〜p2ヤグラ〜14:30〜裏道駐車場16:00
 
・今シーズン、アルパインを3件ほど約束している友人と
マルチピッチ作業やコールの確認でマルチピッチトレーニング
 
・前尾根は混雑も予想されるので、朝、一壁でクライミングして、空いてくる昼頃に前尾根にとりつく計画で、4/29、5/3、5/8と藤内に
 
・4/29 一壁 1ルート、2ルート、3ルート、リード&フォロー、交代で
 トップロープでテンクォーター。リード&フォローでダイレクト
 昼を過ぎても、14時を回っても、前尾根にクライマーが途切れる事はなかったので、一壁クライミングのみで撤退。
 
・5/3 朝、前尾根取りつきに準備している2人の1パーティーのみ。
 前回、前尾根できなかったので、先に前尾根に。空いている。
 天気の良いGW、皆さん遠征にでもお出かけなのでしょうか。GW前尾根は意外と穴場かも
 p5通称壁ドンのルート。壁ドンした後の1歩目は高度感もあってシビレた
 
・5/8 一壁で3本ほどウォーミングアップ
 天気は良いが風強い。鼻の穴まで痛くなってきた。前尾根取りつきにだれもいなさそうなので、早めに前尾根に
 p6通称煙突掃除のルート。チムニー。背中からナニから全身つかってなんとかクリア。

 

ダイレクト。

この日はたくさん知り合いがいたので、写真を撮ってもらえました。ビレイ中の写真撮影ではありません。

前尾根

p2ヤグラ

p6チムニー

p2懸垂下降

 
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