犬山山岳会 山行報告書
前穂高岳(3090m)
企画者
馬場
山名
前穂高岳 北尾根バリエーション
標高差
上高地から1500m
山行形態
バリエーション→一般登山道(岳沢)下山
山行期間
2011年7月9日(土)〜10日(日)テント泊
出発到着時刻
9日7:00 – 10日14:40
天候
快晴
メンバー
伊賀井・馬場・西澤
交通
車1台
行動報告
 
7月9日(土)
8:45上高地→9:30明神荘→10:10徳沢園→11:05横尾→12:10本谷橋→14:00涸沢
7月10日(日)
3:50涸沢→5:40 5・6のコル→9:40前穂高岳山頂→12:40岳沢小屋→14:40前穂高岳(岳沢)登山口
二日目はバリエーションコースでの待ち時間を考慮して早い時間に出発したものの、我々とは遅れて涸沢を出た(多分4:30頃?)4名の別パーティーに5・6のコルで追付かれ、5・6のコルは後続のパーティーより一足先に出たものの、5峰の取り付きでルート選択に迷っている間に後続の4名のパーティーには先を越され、みるみる間に差を付けられ追付ける様な状況では無いと思われたが、4峰の核心部で先行したパーティーがロープ確保を始めた為時間が掛りあっと言う間に追付いて待ち時間が発生、時間があるのでコーヒータイムにしようかと言うところで先行パーティーが50〜60センチ大の岩2個を落石、我々の通過がもう少し遅れていたらあわやという場面もありました。3峰は岩がしっかりしているが、4峰は浮いた岩もかなり多く確保無しで登るのが無難と言う情報もあるようである。その後も待ち時間が解消されず、3峰では先行パーティーから確保無しで登られるのなら追い越してもらって良い旨、申し出があり追い越させてもらった。2峰の下りは懸垂下降の選択枝もあるが、手掛かりもしっかりしておりクライムダウンで通過。9時40分に頂上到着、岳沢の下りは長く厳しかったが岳沢小屋での生は格別でした。岳沢小屋から上高地への下りの途中に氷穴があり、まさしく天然のクーラーでも一息付けました。
所感
7月初旬という事で悪天候も十分予測されたが、日頃の行いのせいか直前の天気予報は大きく外れ、山行当日には太平洋高気圧が前線を一気に北に押し上げ二日目午前中は雲一つない快晴に恵まれ、富士山から剣岳までくっきり見え眺望もこれ以上無いと思われるほど最高でした。テント泊では石焼で、鮭とば、ホシイカ、鱈チーズ、サラミなどを焼いて石焼の美味しさに感動、たいへん盛り上がりました。
4峰での落石がありましたが、岳沢の一般登山道でもふらついた登山者が40センチ大の落石を発生させたのを目の前で目撃し危うさを再認識しました。
その他、テント泊ではザックの重量が重くなりこれに負けないような筋力、体力作りの課題も見えて来ました。

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