犬山山岳会 山行報告書
北アルプス 穂高岳縦走
企画者
林理恵
山名
西穂高岳(2909m)〜奥穂高岳(3190m)〜北穂高岳(3106m)〜南岳(南岳小屋)
山行形態
テント泊山行 縦走 
山行期間
2012年7月19日(木)〜22日(日)
出発/帰着
7月19日21時犬山出発、7月22日22時犬山帰着(時刻は概略)
天候
7/20、7/21 ---- 雨、 7/22 ---- 小雨
メンバー
R 伊賀井、林(理)、西澤、富田
交通
ハイエース(伊賀井)
行動報告
 
7/19 21:00 犬山出発→東海北陸自動車道、高山、平湯経由新穂高温泉登山者駐車場(車中泊)
7/20 08:30 始発ロープウエイ→ 09:00西穂高口出発→ 09:55 西穂山荘縦走スタート→ 11:20西穂独標→ 12:50西穂高岳→ 間ノ岳→ 16:00天狗のコル(テント泊)
7/21 06:05天狗のコル出発→ 08:00ジャンダルム→ 09:40奥穂高岳→ 13:20北穂高岳(テント泊)
7/22 05:55北穂テン場→ 06:10穂高岳→ 06:30北穂山荘出発→ 10:05南岳小屋→ 12:55槍平小屋→ 16:10新穂高温泉
 
縦走状況、所感
 
7/19〜7/20朝 新穂高温泉登山者駐車場ではこの時期は満車であることが普通であるが、平日木曜であることと週末天気予報が良くないせいか駐車は少なく最奥まで入れ、そこで車中泊とした。その時は満天の星空で“予報さにあらず?”の期待をしたが明け方から雨が降り出した。
始発ロープウエイに乗る頃から雨もあがり西穂山荘までは雨装備なしに歩けたが、山荘に着くころから本降りとなり全員山荘軒下で雨具装着しての縦走スタートとなったがリーダーに続き全員志気高揚で“憧れの岩の稜線”に向けて出発。
7/20 丸山、独標、ピラミッドピークを過ぎ西穂に至っても雨は相変わらずで展望もなし。西穂から先はそれまで散見された登山者も視界から消え我々だけになったようだった。
間ノ岳を過ぎ天狗の頭に至る途中から時折ガスが切れ上高地とか笠が岳、の一部とか槍も見えるようになってきた、天狗の逆スラブは雨に濡れ表面に水が流れているので登り難くスリップに緊張した。
天狗の頭前後では雨も止み至近の笠が岳から黒部五郎、上高地と周辺の山も展望でき、直下に岳沢小屋も見えた。3日間の縦走を通して展望といえる展望は結局唯一この時だけだった。
 
天狗のコルでは予定どおり避難小屋跡にテント設営、この避難小屋跡にはグランドシート用としてか銀マット様のシートが置かれていたので利用させてもらった。テントが出来上がればお待ちかね宴会とはやる気持ちをおさえまずは雨に濡れた処理、手袋、靴下など搾るほどに水が出たところで天井に吊るした。宴会はリーダー定番かつ新アイデアの石焼メニューに堪能したが、テント内が温まるにつれまたメニューのにおいと吊るしてある靴下他のにおいがミックスして芳香?が充満------。
宴会中それまで小康状態だった雨が再び降り出し本降りとなって就寝後も続いた。
夜半過ぎだったか雨音が止まり静かになったので翌日を期待したが明け方からまた本降りに戻ってしまった。
7/21 Nさんが夜中にカサコソ音を聞いたがテント撤収時外に置いたゴミ袋が食い破られているのが分かり、こんな岩石以外無いようなところにも何か野生動物がいるようだ。
ガラガラのこぶ尾根に近づいた辺り?でNさんが先般の救助防災ヘリの墜落破片をルート脇に見つけた、ジャンダルムに近づくとガスのなか薄っすらとドーム影が見えてきたがこちらから見えるジャンダルムは奥穂側から見えるそれとは今ひとつで迫力が違って見えた。
ジャンダルム頂でヤッタァー!の4人タッチ、馬の背はやはり核心かただガスっていることが高度感のやわらげに幸いだったかも知れない。
 
 
朝天狗のコルを出発して奥穂までのルートで出会った登山者は西穂へ向かう単独男性1人だけだった。
奥穂小屋で休憩後北穂までのルート、ここは主要箇所に梯子、鎖がしっかりあり周囲景色を堪能したいところだがやはり小雨、ガスで直下の涸沢カールも見えなかった。
北穂に着いたところで、雨の続く中メンバーのテンションもあがらず疲れも見えるということで当初計画の行けたら南岳小屋までをやめ状況により南岳から下山という選択をして北穂で幕営とした。予定を短縮したことで時間が余り北穂小屋に入り、期待のラーメンは時間外だったが生ビールと持ち合わせの肴で楽しんだ。
北穂のテン場は小屋から随分離れておりこれには閉口、テント設営直後若干雲が切れ前穂とか常念〜蝶あたりが見えてきたのでテント内にテルテル坊主を吊るして回復を期待したが、結局今日と同じ翌日も雨で回復することはなかった。
夏山シーズン真っ只中の土曜日にもかかわらずテントは我々以外1張りだけだった。
7/22 やはり雨の中のスタートそれでも今日は小雨で昨日までの雨より条件は悪くない、落石に注意しながら飛騨泣きを下降、ここはまずは人気コースか雨にもかかわらずすれ違う人も結構ある、10人を越えるようなツアーも2組ほどあってA沢コル辺りでは若干待ち時間を費やした。花も最盛期でルート脇に色々咲き誇っているが天気が天気なので百花繚乱の眺めがやはり今ひとつ輝きが無い、北穂池などもよく見えない、残念!
南岳小屋に上がりバンザイ!タッチでキレット通過の締めくくり、雨はあがったが相変わらずのガスだった。
小屋で休憩後南岳新道を下山するが、ここは一般ルートであるのか直下の残雪状況思案の雪渓トラバースは雪切りがしてあり普通に歩けた。南岳新道は木道、梯子など充分備えてはあるが下山に使うとこんなに歩きにくいとは思わなかった。
槍平小屋へは最後に雪渓をトラバースして到着、ここで北穂小屋で食べ損ねたラーメンで後は新穂高温泉までテクテク歩き、これがいつもながら長い!おまけに終盤雨土砂降りに見舞われ、雨に始まり雨に締めくくられた山行であった。
当初もくろみの槍までは延ばせなかったが、雨、雨---にもかかわらずそれでもこの難ルートを無事に通せたのは3日間風が全く無かったことが大きな幸いとなったと思われる、帰路立ち寄った高山の豆腐ステーキ夕食会では達成感に浸ひたり乾杯でした。
リーダーIさんご苦労様でした、及びメンバーの皆さんお疲れ様でした。

 
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