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トップ  >  山行報告  >  報告R2.4.1-R3.3.31  >  R2.9.20-21明神岳主稜 増田
山岳犬山会 山行報告書
個人山行
企画者
増田
山名
明神岳主稜
山行形態
テント泊登山
山行期間
2020年9月20日()〜21()
出発時刻
20日()4時40分
メンバー
増田 他会員外2名
行動
9/20()
  犬山440発〜あかんだな駐車場730〜バス〜上高地8:30着
  上高地9:00発〜岳沢登山口〜7番標識10:00〜明神岳幕営適地13:00着 テント泊
 
9/21()
幕営地5:30発〜5峰6:00〜4峰6:30〜3峰7:00〜2峰7:30〜明神岳8:30
〜奥明神沢のコル9:40〜前穂高岳11:00〜ランチ〜重太郎新道〜岳沢13:40〜上高地16:00着
上高地18:00〜バス〜あかんだな駐車場18:40〜お風呂〜犬山23:00着
初日。岳沢への登山道7番標識から明神岳へ
 踏み跡明瞭。一気に標高をあげる為かなり急登。トラロープ帯辺りやせ尾根
2日目。5峰への登り。朝イチの登りにはキツめ
・4峰問題なし
・3峰左から巻く。切れてるトラバース
・2峰下り懸垂下降
 先行パーティーはダブルロープで一気に下まで。我々は20m下のバンドで1ピッチ
 支点位置からはバンドは視認できない
 2ピッチ目も残置の支点あり
・明神岳主峰への登りガレ結構激しい
奥明神沢のコルへの下り。ここもロープを出す予定だったが、フィックスもありバックアップをとってクライムダウン
・前穂高への登り。ここまでバリエーションとはいえ踏み跡ははっきりしていたが、ここからはルート不明瞭
 登りやすそうなトコをゆくが途中ちょっと不安になる
 前穂頂上直下の標識が見えるコルにドンピシャで出て一安心
・快晴の前穂ピーク。穂高の峰々を見渡し感無量
・テン泊装備を担いでの下りの重太郎新道はなかなか。太ももが悲鳴をあげたので岳沢で大休止。なんとか上高地まで
 
・河童橋に行列ができていて嫌な予感がしたが、やはり沢渡行きのバス待ちの列
 あかんだな行きの列はそこまでではなかったが2時間待ち
・風呂に入り、さて帰るか。となるが、今夏の豪雨被害の片側交互通行の影響もあり平湯〜高山間大渋滞。
 シルバーウィークの上高地をなめてはいけない
 
・北アルプスでのバリエーションルートは初トライ
 バリエーションルート入門コースという話だったが、私にとって甘い道ではなかった
 特にルートファインドにおいて経験不足を痛感
・実戦での懸垂下降も初めてだったがスムーズにできた。今までの練習成果が出てうれしく思う
・うすうす気づいていたが、全線テン泊装備を担ぐ体力勝負のルートをやるには私のザックは大きく重たいのではないか
 特に余分なものを持って行ってるつもりはないのだが、パッキングをゼロベースから見直す必要を感じる 

 

上高地から5峰手前の台地まで一気に標高をあげる

こりゃたまらん

5峰ピークにピッケル。なんのポーズなのかはよくわからない

さぁいってみようか

2峰懸垂下降

2ピッチ目

乗り越えてきた2峰、明神岳主峰をバックに前穂へ

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R2.10.2-4 白馬岳 伊藤紀
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R2.9.19-21 四阿山・黒斑山 清水

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