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トップ  >  山行報告  >  報告H23.4.1-H24.3.31  >  7/23 錫杖岳

 

            山 行 報 告 書     

山 名
錫杖岳(2168m)
山行日時
2011年7月23(土)     天候:曇りのち晴れ(霧多し)
参加者
磯山、中森、林r
 
 
 
 
行 程
 
 
 
3:00  犬山
6:10  中尾高原口駐車場   6:25発
7:35  錫杖沢出合    
8:05  岩小屋        
9:40  稜線コル                    
10:25  錫杖岳(P3)
      本峰へ向かうがP2と本峰との鞍部で断念P3に戻る  
11:20  錫杖岳(P3) 発
12:10  稜線コル
13:25  岩小屋
 13:55  錫杖沢出合
 15:00  中尾高原口駐車場
       平湯の森 経由       
19:45  犬山
 
   行動時間 8時間35分(休憩含む)
    登り 4時間   下り 3時間40分
 
錫杖沢出合までは笠ヶ岳へのクリヤ谷道を行く。気合い十分のマッキーに引っ張られ渡渉点を経て錫杖沢出合まで1時間10分。錫杖前衛フェースが眼前に望まれるとの事だが、あいにくガスの中。(下山時には眺める事ができた)
錫杖沢に入ると、左岸の踏み跡をたどるが、登りすぎると岩壁の下まで行ってしまうので沢から離れすぎないよう赤布に注意し、沢に戻る。沢は水量が多い上、前夜の雨で岩が濡れている箇所が多く、滑り易い。出合から30分で岩小屋着。
 岩小屋からは、ほぼ沢芯を登り大きく巻く事はない。やがて沢は二又に分かれておりどちらをとっても上部で合流し稜線コルにでるとの事。ほぼ直上している左側にルートを取る。両岸が迫りロープがフィックスされている箇所が2,3カ所あるが、
こんな沢は初めてのRちゃんもなんなく通過。
 更に沢を詰めると、水流が消え涸れ沢が2分している。ここは右にルートを取る。
小休止中にガスが晴れ、眼前に錫杖前衛フェースの岩壁が姿を現す。又、対岸には穂高の稜線が一時眺める事ができた。 沢が消え笹藪を漕いて直上すると、枯れ木に赤布の付けられた稜線コルにでる。
 コルから山頂までは、赤布を頼りに、藪漕ぎ、木登り、木跨ぎ、木くぐりの難路、体力を消耗します。切れ落ちたザレ場では緊張もします。木立が無くなると突然、明るい岩場に出、錫杖岳の標識が置かれている。
地図、GPSで確認するとここは、錫杖岳の南端で、ある記録によるとP3となっている。直ぐ北側の岩峰がP2,さらにその北側の樹木に覆われたピークが本峰のようだ。両側がすっぱりと切れ落ち高度感抜群の頂である。頭上は晴れているが、雲やガスで槍、穂高、笠などの遠望が利かないのが残念である。
せっかくだから本峰を踏んで来ようと、岩稜を北に向かうがP2と本峰の鞍部で踏み跡が消え、赤布も見当たらない。樹木に覆われた山頂は人気が無いようだ。無理をすることはないので諦めて、P2の岩峰を極めて戻る事とする。
下りは、踏み跡だけを頼り行き詰まり、コースを見失うこと2,3度。以後目印の赤布に注意を集中しながら下る。コルからの錫杖沢も、登路をほぼ忠実に下る。下りはスリップしないよう、登りに増して集中し降りる。錫杖沢出合まで降りればもう安心、姿を現した前衛フェースに別れを告げる。
後は槍見温泉まで登山道をのんびり?と速く歩いて充実した山行を終える事ができました。また、出発してから下りのクリヤ谷渡渉地点まで誰にも会うことなく、クライマーの姿を目にすることもなく、静かな山行でした。
 
錫杖沢 下部

 

   岩小屋直下の錫杖沢

   

 

  錫杖岩小屋

   

   

   岩小屋〜二又

   

 

   二又上部左ルート最狭部を捩るRちゃん

     

    

   ガスが上がり錫杖前衛フェースが現れました

    

   稜線 岩壁基部をトラバース

     

    錫杖岳(P3)頂上  奥の岩峰がP2 その奥の樹林に覆われたピークが本峰

    

    P2の頂上にて  後ろのピーク 烏帽子岩

    

    P2より絶壁の下を覗く

    

    P2より 錫杖岳P3

    

    錫杖P3 頂上にて

    

    ザレ場を下る

    

    錫杖沢上部より前衛フェース

    

    岩小屋付近より 錫杖岳前衛フェース

    

    

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Warning [PHP]: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, array given in file inuyama_a_c/xanhte/lib/Ethna/Ethna.php.Revision.1.1 line 336
Warning [PHP]: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, string given in file inuyama_a_c/xanhte/lib/Ethna/Ethna.php.Revision.1.1 line 336
Warning [PHP]: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, array given in file inuyama_a_c/xanhte/lib/Ethna/Ethna.php.Revision.1.1 line 336
Warning [PHP]: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, array given in file inuyama_a_c/xanhte/lib/Ethna/Ethna.php.Revision.1.1 line 336
Warning [PHP]: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, integer given in file inuyama_a_c/xanhte/lib/Ethna/Ethna.php.Revision.1.1 line 336
Warning [PHP]: get_class() expects parameter 1 to be object, array given in file inuyama_a_c/xanhte/lib/Ethna/Ethna.php.Revision.1.1 line 336
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 22
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 42
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 59
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 202
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/class/theme.php line 46
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/class/theme.php line 52
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacyRender/kernel/DelegateFunctions.class.php line 26