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トップ  >  山行報告  >  報告H23.4.1-H24.3.31  >  8/28 御在所岳 一の壁クライミング  

犬山山岳会 山行報告書  
山名 御在所岳
山行形態 御在所 一の壁クライミング
日程 2011828() 
天候 雨のち曇りのち晴れ 
移動 伊賀井(ハイエース)
メンバー 伊賀井、西澤、野口、小学5年生女子2名(伊賀井孫、野口娘)
コースタイム 野口宅集合600  ⇒ 御在所裏道登山口740 ⇒藤内壁出合855⇒一の壁クライミング925
下山開始1400 ⇒ 出合215 ⇒駐車場1500 ⇒温泉 食事⇒野口宅1815
所  見  前夜、伊賀井さんよりクライミングの誘いのtelがあり、これといった予定もなかったので即OKをしました。
場所が御在所なので、野口家集合ということだったので朝準備で楽でした。
 
 今回は、御在所ということで、期待と不安の中、たどり着いた場所は、一の壁。三カ月前、娘と
御在所登山の時、登山道の看板に「クライマー以外は危険です、立ち入らないで下さい」と、
書いてあった場所。  こんなにあっさり立ち入っていいのだろうかと、思いつつ到着。
下から見上げると圧倒される程の岩壁でした。
 
 まず、伊賀井さんビレイ、西澤さんリードにて、5ルート コンテスト5.10aにトライ、朝方の雨により
岩肌は、所々濡れていて、中間のハング前で断念下降、その後トップロープに変え野口トライ
同じくハング前で立往生、左の3ルート 堯椶悄▲肇薀弌璽垢靴燭下より他のパーティーが。
登ってきたので、ここで待つ訳にもいかず下降。
 
 子供達用に伊賀井さんが、南面12、0ルート 鵑縫肇奪廛蹇璽廚鬚弔って頂き子供二人トライ、
難無くクリア、物足りなさそうな顔をしていたので、2ルート 瑤悒肇奪廛蹇璽廚魍櫃営召兄匐|に
挑戦させる。 またもや難無くクリア。その後野口も同ルートを伊賀井さんビレイにてトライ、
初心者には、高度感もありとても楽しく、下界では味わうことができない快感でした。
 
 西澤さんが最初の5.10aのルートにリベンジ、丁寧にハングを越えその後の細かいフェイス
核心部分も越えみごとクリア。 130%の力を出し切ったとの事でした。
 
 楽しい時間はあっという間にすぎ、お片付け、結局伊賀井さんは、アシストに徹して頂き、
1本も登れず仕舞い。(申し訳なく、ありがとうございました。)
 
 アプローチも1時間以上あり、登山とクライミングの両方を楽しめ充実した山行でした。
圧倒される岩肌を間近で見て、登って感じて、またのめり込んでいく自分が怖いです。
                                                     野口

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