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メンバーズBlog - 【4】ガッツかない 前穂北尾根

【4】ガッツかない 前穂北尾根

カテゴリ : 
あんな山こんな山
執筆 : 
 2011-7-26 23:50

【4】ガッツかない 前穂北尾根


ふと、足もとが寒くて目が覚めた。
足もとに敷こうと思っていたザックはIサンが枕にしてしまってる
ザック代わりにグースカ寝ているIサンの足の上にウチの足を乗せてやった
( ̄∀ ̄)ウシシシ



時々、夜中に寒くて何度か目が覚める
それでも、酔っ払いだからスグに眠りの世界へ戻される

翌朝、マットをみたら空気が抜けてた( ̄□ ̄;)ガーン
そら、寒いわな


■ 02:00 起床

眠い
こういう時にイチバンに頭をよぎるのは
『もう、ええやん、今日はヤメとこ』

独りならくじけるとこを、仲間がいるから渋々起きる。
冷めて不味くなった塩辛いジャガ餅とトマトカップスープを飲む
朝コーヒーを飲んで、やっとシャキっとする


テン場が混雑していたり、何パーティも北尾根にアタックしそうだったら
鼻息荒く、ちゃっちゃと準備するんやけど、
アカンダナ駐車場もガラガラ
バスも順番待たずにスグに乗れて
登山者も少ない
もちろん、ヒュッテ宿泊者もテン場もガラガラでは気持ちに余裕がでる。
ガッツつかなくてもいいってステキー♪




撤収が完了したら
起きたときは見えていた星が空が白み始めたころに出発

■ 03:50 涸沢 発

重かったけどアイゼンを持ってきて正解
ガシガシとよく効く
昨日の偵察に登った時よりもラクや






インディゴの空が穂高の対面にある大天井の辺りから空が白んでくる
2年ぶりのモルゲン御対面にどきどきワクワクする




奥穂高を見上げると瑠璃色へと変化していく空はさらに紺碧色となり
朝日はゆっくりと涸沢カールへ落ちていく

北穂を背に何度も、何度も振り返りつつ、ゆっくりと登る




もっと早く登ることも出来たけど、今日はドキドキと心拍数を上げずに行く


Iサンとはだいぶん離された。
そら、そーやわな、写真撮ってチンタラ登ってるんやもんな
『もっと、早く登れや!』と思われてるかもしれんが・・・
いや、
『ほっといても、そのうち登ってくる』なんて思ってるだろうが
せっかく渋滞とは無縁のラッキーDAYに来たんやもん、じっくり堪能さしていただきます。






さて、ここに来るまでネットやいろんなとこで情報を集めた。
とにかく、DVDも販売されるようなメジャールートだから
最盛期にはたくさんのパーティがきて、数時間の待ちが発生する
多いときは8パーティにもなるとか(;´Д`)

そうなると、かなり焦る
だって、帰りのバスの時間に間に合わないどころか、
最悪、途中ビバークなんぞ強いられたらたまったもんやない

混雑のせいで時間が読めなくなるってのはホンマにイヤや
何しに山に来てるのかさえも疑問になってくるかもしれんし、
『もーやめ!やめ!』って言ってしまうかもしれん。


はてさて、今日はどうなんやろ?他にパーティ居るんやろか?
キタ━━((( ;゜Д゜)))━━!!!4人パーティ




雪渓が途切れたとこでアイゼンと取っていたら、
ウチらが登り始めたときは、見えなかったのに、
あっと言う間に追いつかれてしまった


はいはい、ウチがトロトロ登ってるからですよ





5.6のコルに到着後、ハーネスとビナ、スリング、ヌンチャクとメットを装着
ハーネスやら使うかどうかわからんけど、
ザックに背負ってるよりは身に着けたほうが肩への負担が軽くなるしね



■ 05:40 5.6コル 発



5.6のコルへはほぼ同時に着いたが、ウチらはすでにアイゼンを外していただけあって
4人パーティよりも早く発った。



んがっ


最初に先頭をきったウチがルーファイミス
よじ登れないこともないが、ハイマツを踏み荒らしてしまう箇所に突っ込んでしまって
もとのルートに戻る間に後からきた4人パーティに抜かされる


『チッ(ーー゛)』


でも、まぁ、抜かされてヨカッタと思うことにした

目視してない場所からいきなり雪渓に現れたスピードのことを考えると
後からせっつかれて気になるよりは、じっくり楽しく登ったほうがええ


案の定、彼らはガツガツと先に進んでいった。


ガッツないウチら( ̄∀ ̄)




 

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