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メンバーズBlog - 【5】極上の一杯 前穂北尾根

【5】極上の一杯 前穂北尾根

カテゴリ : 
あんな山こんな山
執筆 : 
 2011-7-27 22:19

【5】極上の一杯 前穂北尾根





梅雨明けの澄んだ空は高く
日陰のない尾根に太陽の日差しがふりそそぐ





“自分に絶対はない”
自分の足腰を過信せずに手をついて腰を落として確実に攀じる

去年までは岩と岩の上を飛んで歩いたけど、慎重にかつサクサク動く
命が惜しい、怪我もしたくない、へっぴり腰と言われようが安全第一


なのに、ロープは出さないってどーゆーこと?どこが安全第一やねんっ?
っつーか、どこで必要なん?
登攀したいなら、そういったフェースもあるし、ルートを選べばいいと思うけど
普通に登ってるぶんには、どうしてもロープで確保しなければいけないようなルートはない。
奥穂から西穂へのルートに毛の生えた程度の難易度や
※個人差があるので参考にしないでね。WEBレポの90%はロープ使ってるから




いろんな山レポを参考にしてると、4峰が核心とか、ヤバイとか、恐ろしいとか
いろいろ書いてあるが、ウチって神経が欠落してるんやろか?と思うぐらい
そんなことはあまり感じなかった。

下山時の脚の疲れのほうがよっぽど大怪我しそうでヤバかった。

みんな、大げさにおもしろおかしくレポってるんじゃないやろか?
確かに、踏み外したらオワリやなってのはナンボでもあったが
地震や落石がない限りは大丈夫






ぼちぼち登っていくと4峰でウチらの前を行くパーティをとらえた
遠くに見える彼らはシュルシュルとロープをならしてる。

『あぁ、ザイル使うんだ・・・時間かかるね』

っつーか、ロープセットするだけでなんぼ時間かかってんやろーと思うぐらい長居している。
そらぁ、4人もおれば多少時間はかかるやろうけどな。

ロープワークでタイムロスの多い前のパーティと
ウチら丸腰フリーとの間は一気につまった。

ぽっこり顔を出してるよ!さぁドコだ?




4峰は落石が多いとのウワサ通り
前のパーティがこぶし大のラクをやってくれた┐( ̄ヘ ̄)┌

しかも、後続にウチらがいるのをわかってて『ラク』すら言わない

どんなドシロウトやねん(ーー゛)
『落としたら言ってやー』と思わず声をはりあげる


かなり近づいたとこで、『同じ待つならゆっくりしよう!まだ朝の7時や』
ってことで贅沢な空間での珈琲タイム



■ 07:15 4峰核心前でコーヒータイム


座れそうなくぼみにザックを下ろして落ち着いたと思ったら

ガラガラガラ!!!!!
人間でも落ちてきたのか!?
巨大ななにかが落ちてくる!!!!!!!!!!!!!
それが岩だとわかるのに、コンマ秒もかかるわけではないが
5-60センチ級の大岩が2個も

『ラク!!!』と前のパーティの最後尾のオネーちゃんの声

ラクとちゃうやろ!
落とすな!マヌケ


その岩はウチらが数分前に通った場所を通過して奈落のソコに消えていった。
『こわーーーーー( ̄□ ̄;)』

まさに神がかり的なラクや
普通の人間やったら、あんな岩を落とすことはない
っつーか、どうすれば落とせるのか?
殺人でもしようと思ったんかいっ!
教えて欲しいわ。

パーティのオニーさんが『落とさないで!気をつけて』など言って
軽く怒鳴ってたが・・・ウチなら叱責罵倒やな






とにもかくにも、運は我にあり!で難をのがれた。
そして、天候までも味方につけている。
360度の穂高最大級のパノラマじゃ\(≧▽≦)/
梅雨がまだあけてないと予想される日に嬉しい裏切りの梅雨明け十日晴れ


『おおっ!富士山が噴火中』




富士山頂に噴煙のように雲がモクモク




槍もチョキンチョキンにくっきり見える

手前の山が北穂高でその下に南陵でその奥が東稜






去年の奥穂から西穂のギザギザルートも目の前や
『よう、あんなアップダウンのルート歩いたな、そら、しんどいはずやで!』


上高地から見えてた赤い山は“赤岩岳”なるほど(o^-')b
ちょいと気になる山だ。


燕岳から大天井から常念も見える
北アルプスのすべての尾根がくっきりみえて、大天井から赤岩岳を経て槍への東鎌ルート

ずっと向こうには剱岳と白馬岳まで見渡せる

『ありえへん!ウチが山やってた中では過去最高の天気やわ』

それにしても、何か違う…
なんだろう

喉につかえたような想いがうまく吐き出せないし、飲み込めない
それがわかったのは下りてきて、この記事を書いてからだ。
 

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