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メンバーズBlog - 【6】丸腰すっぴん 前穂北尾根

【6】丸腰すっぴん 前穂北尾根

カテゴリ : 
あんな山こんな山
執筆 : 
 2011-7-29 11:55

【6】丸腰すっぴん 前穂北尾根


軽く30分以上は休憩しただろう

\(^^\)三(/ ^^)/



ぼちぼちと再出発




前のパーティはまた米粒のように離れ3峰に取り付いていた
ウチらは3.4のコルのあたりで腰を下ろしたが、
『抜かそうや』と前のパーティがラクをしないタイミングを見計らって近づいた。




奥又白池に氷がはってるのが見える
こんどは、あそこをベースキャンプにして穂高に登ってみたいな







さて、ウチが北尾根のイチバンの核心だと思ったのは3峰のチムニー直前の
三角木馬になったような箇所

クライミングシューズなら問題ないが、登山靴ではつま先がかかりにくい
とっかかりのホールドは三角の頂点のみでガバのようでガバではない。
もうちょっと身長があれば、いいのになーって感じ
はずせば谷底

うーーーーむ

足か手がガバならいいが、どっちもガッチリしてない
たった一歩のことなんやけどね
ムリはしない( ̄∀ ̄)安全第一

わざわざロープ出すほどのことはないが、三角の斜面にちょうどボルトがあり
そこにスリングだけかけて保険とする。
気分的なものが大きいわな。

で、ヨシ!いくでーーーー!!!と言いたいとこなんやけど、
Nサンが真下で待機している
『あのさー、ウチが落ちたら心中やで?ええの』

『・・・』

『落ちんでも、足を踏み外すとNさんの顔面キックするで』

避けてくれる自信があるんだろうということで無視して登ることにした。


三角木馬岩のすぐ上で前のパーティに追いついて、ザックを下ろした。


ロープ使って登ってる前のパーティ




やっぱ、後で待たれると焦るんやろなぁ
最後尾の落石ネーサンは激汗で焦ってる。

セルフのスリングは絡まるしビナは忘れていこうとするしね


落石ネーサンが確実に登ってからウチらも後を追った。


さぁ、どこから前のパーティを抜くタイミングを見計らおうかと思ってたら
ウチらを見て前のリーダーらしき人が
『丸腰ですかー?だったらボクらはロープ使ってて時間かかるから先に行ってください』
と申し出てくれた。

顔も丸腰のスッピンですわ┐( ̄ヘ ̄)┌


 


当たり前っつーか、言ってくれんかったら
ウチが『どいて』って言ったかもね( ̄∀ ̄)

遅いってのもあるけど、落石ネーチャンが怖い




ありがたく先にいかせてもらい、ルートは懸垂降下があるといわれてる2峰の下りとなる

『ええっ?ロープだすの?』
『出すわけないやん』


たった5メートル程度やろうか、こんなとこでロープなんぞいらんわい
普段からクサリにぶら下がって山登りしてる人なら必要かもしれんが
梯子のようにしっかり持てるガバ岩ばっかやん
それでも落ちたら流血やから、丁寧に降りる




もう1峰をちょこっと登ると三角点があり
目先を少し向こうへやると






いよいよ・・・最後の1峰の向こうは・・・

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