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メンバーズBlog - 【7】さぁ、どうする?>南アルプス物語

【7】さぁ、どうする?>南アルプス物語

カテゴリ : 
あんな山こんな山
執筆 : 
 2011-9-9 11:22

【7】さぁ、どうする?>南アルプス物語



■ 11:35 地蔵岳(2764m)着


そして目の前にそびえるは本日のメインイベント
オベリスク

ウチらの到着を待ってか?
ガスが晴れてきてオベリスクの全容があきらかになる\(≧▽≦)/

イメージしていたよりも、けっこう大きい
遠くから見るとウワサ通りのチューリップスタイル





手乗りオベリスクポーズを撮ってみる。
荷物をデボして登攀道具だけボディにかける。

ザラザラの花崗岩をヨジヨジと核心部の手前まで登る。
ネットでチェックしたら、裏に回れって書いてあったから
グルっと覗いてみるが、登りやすそうなとこはドコにもない。

うーーーーーん?

前にまわって核心部の前でトップを見上げる。




岩の状態は瑞浪の秀則のような約90度のコーナーで高さが4-5mぐらいかなー?
コーナーがクラックになっているから、そこに手を入れて
ジャムジャム忍者登りするのが正解だろう。


でも、それは安全を確保してが前提
もとより、キケンなことはするつもりもないし、
3人でオベリスクの上に立ちたい気持ちがイチバン優先


さぁ、困ったのが道具とメンツ

クライミングができるI部クンが来なかったおかげで、
ウチひとりで二人をサポートしなくてはならない。

しかも、できる限り道具はナシで。


■ 登攀道具 ■ 重さ910g
・スリング240cm×3本
・捨てスリング×3本
・8mm×50cmロープ×1本
・アッセンダー2つ
・ATCを1つ
・エイト環を1つ
・ビナ3つ





頼りになるビレイヤーがいない状態なのに、頼りになる道具の
ハーネス、ザイル、フレンズを持って行きたくなかった。



あるのはヨレた残留ロープのみ


さぁ、どうする!!!???


I藤さんはクライミングをやっていなくても、腕力脚力運動神経がある。
Rちゃんは外岩で特訓済み。でも花崗岩の垂直を登るのは相当難しい。

アッセンダーと下降器(ATC・エイト環)を貸してしまうと、
ウチはフリークライムとなる。


さぁ、どうする!!!???




■---------------------------------->続く【8】頭で攀じれ!


【1】山探し
【2】まったくどーすんの?
【3】問題の大安売り
【4】天然ブリの開き
【5】鬼坂
【6】上々下々
【7】さぁ、どうする?
【8】頭で攀じれ!

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