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メンバーズBlog - 【8】頭で攀じれ!オベリスク>南アルプス物語

【8】頭で攀じれ!オベリスク>南アルプス物語

カテゴリ : 
あんな山こんな山
執筆 : 
 2011-9-10 0:45

【8】頭で攀じれ!オベリスク>南アルプス物語


最低限の道具を最大限に活用する

実のところ、こういったことに頭を使うのが好きなのです



まずはハーネスの代わりにスリングを肩から幼稚園バッグのように斜めにかけて
8の字にねじって反対側の首と肩へかけると不思議なたすきがけの出来上がり。


胸の前中心にビナをつけ、残留ロープとアッセンダーを設置する。
これで、ロープに大きなテンションさえかけなければ最低限の確保はできる。


何本(5本以上)もブラさがった残留ロープに頼って登る人も居るかもしれんけど
さすがにヤバイでしょ。


二人は確保できたとしても、ウチのぶんの道具がないっ!(>_<)
岩のグレードはようわからんけど、
クラックにジャムが効けばフリーで登れる

でも、いやや。

何本もブラさがった残留ロープがクラックをふさいでしまって
ロープをどかしてジャムをはめなきゃアカン
めっちゃ手間取るし(-_-;)


で、どうやったかと言うと、アッセンダーのかわりに
持ってきた8mmロープで残留ロープにつけてブルージックをすることにした。
どっちにしろ、テンションかけずに登るつもりではあるが、何が起こるかわからんもんね。

と、えらそうなことを言いつつ…
実は、ジャムをせずに片手はロープを使わせてもらいました。


お手本登りが必要でしたから( ̄∀ ̄)


花崗岩はザリザリつるつるで本来ならクラックしかホールドのない
グレードの高い岩、オベリスクなのに
片手片足部分は人工的に岩を削ってあるとこに置くことができます。


人工的ってどうよ!?と思うけど
まぁ、ロープがダラダラとブラさがってるんやからね。
なんでもアリなんでしょうね。




※つっぱって休憩中
それでも、久々の岩登り!楽しかった(ノ´▽`)ノ





次ぎにRちゃん満面の笑みでクリア
※本人談によると、躊躇してたらしい。

上でセルフビレイをしたのち、アッセンダーを外して安全な場所に移動


最後にI藤さん
腕力だけで登ってくるだろうと思ったら、最後のひと登りのところで
アッセンダーをあげすぎてしまって岩の上に乗りあがれきれない。
(ウチがもうちょっと早くストップかけれてばヨカッタ)


これは、経験した人ならようわかると思うけど、ほんまに動かれへんねん。
しかも足場もなくなるし、岩の角にくの字になって上半身が乗ってるだけのようなもの。
こりゃ、マントルしてもらうしかねーな


※マントル
壁の頂上にはい上がる動き。手のひらで頂上をパーミングしながら、足で上っていき、
上半身が壁の上にきたくらいで、ハイステップの要領で立ち上がる




Rちゃんのときと同じく、上からセルフビレイをとり、
お腹の下になったアッセンダーをはずし
ロープをつかみつつ、腕立ての要領でグイグイっとあがってもらう。
普段から鍛えてて100回ぐらい腕立てできそうなI藤サンやから出来たんやと思う。


フッヒーーーーっ!!!!ε=(´∀`A)フゥ〜〜 d


見事、3名でオベリスク登頂成功



■---------------------------------->続く【9】登ったら下りる

【1】山探し
【2】まったくどーすんの?
【3】問題の大安売り
【4】天然ブリの開き
【5】鬼坂
【6】上々下々
【7】さぁ、どうする?
【8】頭で攀じれ!
【9】登ったら下りる



オベリスクの上から下界を望む


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