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メンバーズBlog - ヘタレクライマーin瑞浪屏風山

ヘタレクライマーin瑞浪屏風山

カテゴリ : 
岩!ガン!クライミング
執筆 : 
 2010-5-10 0:13

いろんなクライミング仲間にダメだしをくらい クライミングシューズを新調した。


 かなり小さい本気シューズ


ミウラー スポルティバ−LA SPORTIVA


好日山荘で試し履きをしたときはイケそうやったのに 実際に岩にとりつくと相当痛い


中国3千年の木靴か!?


場所は瑞浪の屏風岩


まずはIサンがトップロープをセットして降下


 


5.8ロンパールーム


まずはトップロープで腕慣らし ウチは靴慣らし


 



 


本気シューズでどこまで違うんか?


それにしても痛い!痛い!痛い! ムッギューーーーーーー


『こんな痛い靴を履いて何がオモロイねん!』文句タラタラ


せやけど、どうしても立ちこめなかった小さい粒粒のような出っ張りにつま先をグリっと押し込む


大オオおお大おおおおおーーーーーっ!


すげーーーーーーーーーーーーーーっ!


立てた!


でも・・・痛い・・・ ウチ、ガンバ!


靴を信用できるって頼もしい トップロープではクリアできた!


めっちゃうれしい


今、思えば若干テンションきつめ? いやいや、自分の足で立ったもーーーーーん


トップロープでできるならリードもできるはず!


っつーわけで、メットをかぶってリードチャレンジ


↓この高さでも2メートル以上はある



落ちたら痛いですまないか?


本気シューズでなら立ちこめてます


でも、痛すぎて・・・3歩目が出ず敗退


本気シューズなら3ピッチが限界かも


 


自分の足に馴染むまで、どんだけかかるんやろか


クライミング友は


『ミウラは天然ゴムで時間がかかるけど自分の足にフィットするようになるよ。


最初は痛いけどガマン』と言う せやけど・・・


マジ痛い


最初にこんな靴履いたら クライミングを嫌いになる!


では、気を取り直してダメシューズでチャレンジ


でも、やっぱりダメシューズじゃハナクソみたいな粒に乗りこんでクリアできない


 


新しい別ルート発見


左足に体重とバランスを移動させたら


左手のホールドを掴むことができ


右足を離して


右手も離してからアンダーで登れる


 


これなら5.8のレベルもわかる! ウチでもできる


んがっ!ちゃんと足が岩に乗ってるのに ビレイが出ない(;´Д`)


『はりすぎー!アカンてぇ!行かれへんやん』


めっちゃひっぱってんのに、ピンピンに張られて移動できない。


こっちもギリのタイミングで乗ってんのにぃぃぃぃいいい((+_+))


『出してー早う!!!!!』


確かに、ボロボロ落ちるし、


ケガさせられんっちゅーのもあるんやろーけど


一つ目の支点から50センチも離れてないっちゅーねん


そらーウチがヘタレやから登られへんかってんけどな・・・_| ̄|○ガックシ


トップロープクリア


リード敗退



さてさて、お楽しみの山ランチ メニューは季節モノのボンゴレスパゲッティ(レトルト)


・・・にしておいてよかった・・・


Iサンがストーブの変わりにアイゼンを持ってきてしまった


笑ったヽ(^o^)丿



 


ってなワケで、すぐ近所にあって前から気になってた定食屋サンへ



こんな辺ぴな場所で定食なんて・・・と思うけど ウチは好きな雰囲気の店だった。


 



自然薯むぎとろ定食 そば定食のほうが、


蕎麦も麦とろご飯も付いててお得だった



 


山ランチはできなかったけど、


思いのほか美味い飯にありつけました


2010年5月8日 瑞浪・屏風岩

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