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メンバーズBlog - 伊木で岩踊り食い流し素麺

伊木で岩踊り食い流し素麺

カテゴリ : 
岩!ガン!クライミング
執筆 : 
 2010-7-12 14:45

土曜日は天気がよかったから近所の伊木の岩場に行きました。

3 クラック登り 5.9 BOLT6本
 クラック沿いにテラスへ抜けます。足をうまく使いましょう。テラスからはガシガシ登ろう。岩場入門にお薦めの1本です
終了点はリップでトラバースOK。

5 テラス直上 5.10b BOLT6本
 テラスへ直上し、斜め右上のアンダー・サイドのガバを経由し終了点へ向かいます。


本日のナマ岩初のI上君は3番の課題
 

緊張でカッチカチ

両手両足がパーの大の字になり苦悩するI上君

もー必死っ!

テラスにあがるまでに、すでに足はミシンを踏んでます
雑巾が5枚ぐらい縫えました。

上から雨が降ってきました
天気はええのになぁー
はい、I上君は汗だくだくで水もしたたるイイ男になってます。

クリアーできてニッコニコ

降りてきて、生まれたての子ヤギのようにヘロヘロになりったの巻き

ウチはメシで身体が重くなる前に5番を1本登る。

お楽しみ流し素麺

サイドメニューに温泉卵とかき揚げ、キス揚げ、サラダ、ノンアルコールビール

残念ながら木曽川の川では素麺は流せません

 まったりとランチ中
 


このあとI上君にビレイをやってもらうねんけど・・・
こんなビレイ初めてみたぞ!

彼は某クライミングジムのスクールに2回ほど通ったらしいけど・・・

危ないからロープの端を持ってたんやわ
そしたら、なんかしらんけど、引いたこっち側のロープが縄跳びのヘビ遊びみたいにニョロニョロ激しく波打つ


で、ウチが端っこを持ってるもんやから波うったロープがビシバシ当たって痛いわっ( ̄▽ ̄;)
そのうち、
「お嬢さんお入いんなさい」って感じになりそうやったわ。

わかる?
 

つまり、この写真の手の持ち方のまま、大アクションで超早くて細かいビレイ
手をスライドさせるだけで、ロープの持ちかえも一切なし。
で、右手をスライドさせる一瞬、右手がロープを掴んでない状態になるわけ
でで、彼の親指と人差し指の間はスレて真っ赤っか


むずかしいーなービレイって

ジムも金とるなら、しっかり教えてよなぁ
 

夕方から参戦に来たI部君、5番から3番にぬけるルートを登ります。

取り付きのハングで少し悩みますが、難なくクリア\(^^\)三(/ ^^)/

 ほっほっほI上君に対して先輩としての技を見せることができました!

ウチは5番を3本登ってオシマイ

 

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