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メンバーズBlog - 【1】プロローグ 前穂北尾根

【1】プロローグ 前穂北尾根

カテゴリ : 
あんな山こんな山
執筆 : 
 2011-7-22 11:59

【1】プロローグ 前穂北尾根


去年からあたためておいた山行企画
前穂高 北尾根バリエーションルート

山は思い立った時から登り始めてる
情報を集め、地図をみて地形をイメージし
気候天候を考え肌で感じる

ビジョンができあがって準備する
そこからが楽しい山行の一部なのデス。


今回のターゲット日程は7月9日.10日であり、問題が2つある。

梅雨明け前の微妙な日
ありとあらゆる天気予報サイトと更新されるたびに毎日毎時ニラメッコする


もうひとつの問題は雪渓
アイゼンとピッケルの携行が必須となる。
はっきり言って重いヽ(;´Д`)ノ

6月から7月にかけて穂高に入った山行を検索するが
天気が悪いらしく、6月しかヒットしなかった。

うーむ・・・

6月の18日現在で尾根上には雪なし
そのほかの現地情報から雪渓が残っているのは涸沢カールあたりのみ
かつて穂高のヌシ?だった友人にも5.6のコルへは急登で
スプーンカットされた雪渓をアイゼンなしで登るのは
危険きわまりないとクギをさされる。
※ウチのレベルで↑

アイゼン、ピッケルが必須となると、荷物は鬼重くなるやん(><;)

どうやって軽量化すべきか

アイゼン、ピッケル
ハーネス(アルパイン用)ヌンチャク3本、ATC、スリング2本、ビナ2個、ヘルメット
シェラフ(430g)、エアマット
カッパ、ダウン、グローブ
コップ、箸スプーン、プラまな板、ティッシュなどエチケット類、ファーストエイド類

ヘッデン、換え電池、コンパス、カメラ、携帯、iphone
行動食、アクエリアスパウチパック冷凍(300g×4個)
【共同装備】3食分(水場ベースなので、乾物類)


--------------これだけで約11キロ--------------

かなり切り詰めて、着替えすらも持たなかったのに、それでも重い
食べて減ったとは言え、お持ちかえりがあった自分の行動食が余分だったな。



【持ってもらった共同装備】
ロープ9mm×40m
テント
コッヘル、ガス、ラジオ、米や葡萄の飲み物など


------------他のみんなはウチより2キロぐらいは重かったかも----------
         体重に比例してOKってことで(^-^)/


パンツと靴下ぐらい着替えを持って行きたくて、
最後までパンツを手に家の中でウロウロしてたらファブリーズ発見!!!
着ていく服全部にファブリーズをかけまくる。
特に股間には念入りに
(`∀´)


これで、替えパンツをやっとあきらめられたが
なんの反逆か?
家に帰ったら、そのパンツは“置いていかれた”と玄関先で居座っていた
・・・ウチの留守の間に来客がなかったことを祈る・・・





さて、みんなで一緒に山に行くのだから、
“連れて行ってもらう登山”はありえない
仕事はガッチリと采配させてもらいマス(`∀´)

Iサンは車出しとリーダー
Nサンは計画書報告書
ウチは食担


それぞれが何かを担うことにより、
ちゃんと下調べをしなければならなくなるってのが利点やな


さて、今回のメニューは涸沢テン場で夜と朝、
岳沢で昼食となる水場ベースで予定を組んでみた。

【夜】ふかひれ中華スープに春雨入り・粉末マッシュポテトコンソメ味
   サラミ、クラッカー、生きゅうり

【朝】トマトカップスープ、ジャガ餅のり巻き(マッシュ+片栗粉)、チーズ

【昼】まるちゃんワンタンスープにそうめん入り(そうめん忘れた)

【調味料】塩、胡椒、コンソメ、乾燥貝柱、乾燥トマト



で…結局、みんな荷物減らしのためか、
それぞれが持ってきたおつまみが主食となってしまう(。>0<。)ギャン





準備は完了しても、天気予報は思わしくない
鼻息荒く天気図をみても、前線は吹っ飛んでくれへん


土曜に朝鮮半島まで押し上げた前線が日曜日に南下してくる予想

負けるな!高気圧ヽ(`Д´)ノ

日曜の雨予報は60%
これでは行く気がしない
大事な山のための日程をわざわざ天候の悪い日に使えない
『もう、ダメかな・・・』とあきらめかけた金曜の昼前11時の更新をチェックすると
なんと!30%まで回復している
しかも、その後、梅雨明けまで宣言された!
運気は我にアリ!!!!


イケイケムードになりたいとこやけど、今回のテーマは
“身の程を知りつつ最大限に楽しむ”

つまり、無理しない、バテない、安全第一、背伸びしない、がんばらない
己を知り、自分の身の丈にあった山遊びをしたい


バリバリの勝気なウチがこう丸くなったのは
山に対して大人になった証拠か?:*:・( ̄∀ ̄)・:*:


っつーか、山の怖い部分を感じるようになったってものあるかもな。
いくらガンバっても自分の思い通りにならないし、
自分の持てるチカラ以上を過信してもしゃーない。


モノゴトは120%出すつもりでも、やっと100%にしかならない二割減
モノゴトは100%出し切っても、限界超えの120%ぐらいできる二割増


そんな風にいつも思ってたけど
山でそんな計画たててたらアカンやんと思うようになった。


だって、まだまだ経験値が足りへんもん。


山で80%出すつもりでも、60%に抑えておく二割減
山で80%出し切っても、限界超えの120%ぐらいできる四割増(遭難時)


…って定義付けてみたが、いかがなもんでしょう(`∀´)


まぁ、まだ死にたくないからねー
 

つづく⇒『戒めやで』

北尾根より吊尾根⇒奥穂を望む。奥穂の奥は北穂。奥穂から向かって左にジャン

 

【1】プロローグ
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=104

【2】戒めやで
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=105

【3】食い倒れ
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=106

【4】ガッツかない
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=107

【5】極上の一杯
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=108

【6】丸腰すっぴん
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=109

【7】きっと明日はいい天気♪
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=111

【8】オーッ!モーレツ
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=112

【9】生きてる?
http://inuyamasangakukai.com/modules/d3blog/details.php?bid=113

 

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Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/mywaitings.php line 72
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/tags.php line 83
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/tags.php line 110
Warning [PHP]: Parameter 1 to StdCache_Initialize::setForModule() expected to be a reference, value given in file core/XCube_Delegate.class.php line 356
Unknown Condition [8192]: Function ereg() is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/d3blog/class/category.class.php line 300
Unknown Condition [8192]: Function ereg() is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/d3blog/class/category.class.php line 300
Unknown Condition [8192]: Function ereg() is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/d3blog/class/category.class.php line 300
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/libs/smartyplugins/function.d3comment.php line 42
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 22
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 42
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 59
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 202
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/class/theme.php line 46
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/class/theme.php line 52
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacyRender/kernel/DelegateFunctions.class.php line 26