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メンバーズBlog - 念願かなった憧れの剱八ッ峰バリエーション

念願かなった憧れの剱八ッ峰バリエーション

カテゴリ : 
岩!ガン!クライミング
執筆 : 
nisizawa 2018-7-17 13:18

 

7/14(土)

400犬山出発 830立山駅 950ケーブルカー乗車 1100室堂 1500剣山荘(2470m)

7/15(日)

330出発、440長次郎谷出合、700 5-6コル、8:20 Dフェイスの頭、915七峰、

1000八峰、1100八ッ峰ノ頭、1350剣岳山頂、1630剣山荘

7/16(月)

610出発、950室堂、1030下山バス乗車、1130立山駅、1800犬山着

 

メンバー:中森、林、野口、西澤

 

感無量

Mさんと私は前穂北尾根と北鎌尾根を既に踏破しているので、今回5-6のコルからではあるが八ッ峰への思いは殊の外である。また3年前に北鎌尾根をご一緒頂いたSさんKさんにご一緒頂いたことは実に心強く何かとお助け頂きました。

更にKさんから今年6月末の八ッ峰情報を事前に得られた事はたいへん参考になりました。車の運転も一人任せでお疲れ様でした。

 

7/14(土)

室堂:みくりヶ池はまだ雪が融け切っていません。

別山乗越(2750)からは目指す八ッ峰が真正面に!!

剱沢警備派出所にて警備隊の方らか最新情報を入手、口頭でも周辺情報を詳しく説明して頂いた。

必要な水:体重x5x行動時間 ⇒ 60kgx5x10時間=3000cc

7/15(日)

事前情報や昨日の警備隊員からの情報により出発時間を1時間繰り上げて出発(全く寒くない)

剣沢雪渓を下る途中で漸く空に明るさが出てきた。雪渓を歩き続けるが寒くならない。

長次郎谷出合(1950m)から登り返し

5-6のコルまで雪渓は途切れ無し(正面右が5-6のコル)

5-6のコルに向けて登り詰める。

雪渓に不思議な謎のトンネル

5-6のコル(2650m)に到着

5-6のコルにも大量の残雪

振り返ると聳え立つ五峰

Cフェースを登るクライマー隊と正面は北方稜線

六峰周辺はお花畑も

六峰の中盤は緩やかな傾斜の稜線歩き

北方稜線は巻道辺りまで雪が残っています。

Dフェースの頭からの懸垂下降

六峰からの懸垂下降

チンネを登るクライマーたち

七峰への登り

稜線の風は乾燥して涼しい。

七峰からの懸垂下降

クレオパトラニードル

八峰からのぞむ八ッ峰ノ頭

八ッ峰ノ頭からのぞむ八峰

八峰二回目の懸垂の支点に使用した残置リングが小さめで、リング2個に加えてスリングにロープを通した為にロープを回収しようとした際にスリングがリングに喰い込み回収不能、登り返してスリングを外して再度懸垂後ロープを回収、タイムロスでした。

八峰からの懸垂下降

 八ッ峰ノ頭(2890)からの懸垂下降

八ッ峰ノ頭からの懸垂下降は40mでロープを二本結んで使用しますが、傾斜が緩やかでロープの回収が出来るか心配になり降りる前にロープの回収を試みると案の定結び目が岩に引っかかり回収できない。3名が懸垂下降終了後ロープは外して最終1名はクライムダウン、傾斜が緩やかなので難なく降りる事が出来た。

北方稜線への登り

剱岳山頂

先にも述べたが、50mロープが2本必要となるのは八ッ峰の頭からの40mの懸垂のみであったが、ここはクライムダウンでも十分可能でした。

しかし、ロープ1本で行くとなると全員が懸垂下降終了後にロープを回収して次へ進むのでロープが次の支点に届くまでに待ち時間が発生する。この際にロープが二本あれば二人目で懸垂下降した人がロープの回収を待たずに次の支点に向かって、次の支点では待ち時間なしに作業が進められるのでタイムロスが最小限にでき、これは大きなメリットとなる。

追記

?立山駅ではネットで予約が出来る事に気が付かず、待ち時間が発生した。犬山からなので立山駅への正確な到着時間は誤差の発生もあり得るが、朝一はどうしても乗客が集中するのでネット予約の検討も良いかもしれません。

 

?「地球の風、EARTH」活用のお勧め(難しい高層天気図の代わりで更に高機能)

トップページ「天気予報」コラムでも案内しているが、Earthで7/15(日)正午の天気を検証してみた。

地上の風速と相対湿度:南西からの弱い風で北海道を除き陸上はドライ傾向

同じく1500m付近:西日本と東北・北海道は湿度が高いが、中部山岳地帯はドライ傾向。

同じく3000m付近:北海道を除いて全般的にドライ、剱付近は西風

こちらは3000m付近の風速と気温(剱付近をポイント指定)

この地球の風は過去のデータが呼び出せるのはもちろん、4日先までスーパーコンピューターの予測が見られるのが最大のメリットだと言えるかと思います。

今回下界は太平洋高気圧に覆われ地上では38度を超える猛暑となっていたが、上空は大陸の高気圧の影響で上空にドライな空気が入り入道雲の発生も全くなくまた、涼しい風でたいへん心地よかった。今回のコースでは13時間も歩いているのでどうしても夏場は午後の天候が気になる。こんな時にはたいへん参考になりそうです。

今回稜線は涼しく朝夕の冷え込みも無くダウンジャケットは全く出番が有りませんでした。

 

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Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/subcategories.php line 84
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/mywaitings.php line 53
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/mywaitings.php line 72
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/tags.php line 83
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/pico/blocks/tags.php line 110
Warning [PHP]: Parameter 1 to StdCache_Initialize::setForModule() expected to be a reference, value given in file core/XCube_Delegate.class.php line 356
Unknown Condition [8192]: Function ereg() is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/modules/d3blog/class/category.class.php line 300
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file inuyama_a_c/libs/smartyplugins/function.d3comment.php line 42
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 22
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 42
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 59
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/kernel/Legacy_EventFunctions.class.php line 202
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/class/theme.php line 46
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacy/class/theme.php line 52
Unknown Condition [8192]: Assigning the return value of new by reference is deprecated in file modules/legacyRender/kernel/DelegateFunctions.class.php line 26